Monday, April 16, 2007

Crime in Cuba

I can only think of one country in all my travels where I possibly felt as safe, and seen as little crime, as I did during my ten days in Cuba -- and that would be Denmark, where I lived as an exchange student in 1985-86.

In my ten days in Cuba, I visited a dozen or so cities and towns, five of the country's 14 provinces, and several busy transportation facilities, including the main airport, train stations and bus depots. I walked through working-class housing projects. And, on my own and often late at night (one of the few times I could break free from my delegation), I visited shabby Havana neighborhoods that would have looked at home in some of America's worst inner-city gang territories.

Through it all, I never felt threatened or in danger, never saw a single crime or fight, never heard a major argument (unless it was about baseball). All I saw were Cubans going about their business, chatting in small groups of friends, sitting on park benches, playing chess and dominoes, dressed nice heading out to a night on the town, riding bikes, and, near tourist areas, a few hustling foreigners with offers of cigars.

I also saw police officers, lots of police offers. They stood on nearly every third or fourth street corner, in every other park or plaza, singly or in pairs. They would stand quietly on guard, saunter casually along, pull over speeding pedi-cab drivers, question overly drunk passersby and offer directions to lost tourists. They insisted to see ID cards from all Cubans they questioned and often wrote citations for what looked to me to be minor offenses. They were a constant presence and proved hard to get used to for this San Diegan, grown accustomed to living in one of the most under-policed large cities in America.

I walked some of Havana's darkest, dingiest alleys, almost to dare, challenge and test the surreal sense of safety and security I felt in this foreign country. Nothing bad ever happened to me, night after night.

I was told by several Cuban parents that, although their country's socialist system has some room for improvement, they cherish the fact that their young children can go out and play in the streets, even at night, without parental supervision . . . and come home again safe and sound.

It made me wonder how many parents in some of the worst parts of Tijuana, Chicago or Caracas -- or most other large cities in the United States and throughout most of the the rest of Latin America -- could say the the same thing?

In my opinion, Cuba's unbelievable lack of crime may be attributed to a few factors, including the heavy police presence, fear of imprisonment, less racial conflict, absence of sharp class differences, and a sense of national pride and community solidarity that usurps individual priorities.

I grew up and live in a country where TV news broadcasts feed us stories of murder, mayhem, crime and cruelty on a daily basis. I live in a neighborhood where muggings are on the rise, theft occurs regularly and the best the police can do is tell us to 'be on guard.' I have close friends who struggle to escape pasts scarred by gang violence. I live in a nation where emotional issues related to crime and punishment shape national dialogue, win and lose political elections, raise great walls around well-to-do neighborhoods, erect bars over the windows and doors of less well-to-do neighborhoods, and inject lifelong paranoia into the American psyche.

I had no idea that, in Communist Cuba, there existed a society and a system that had found a way to largely eliminate the kind of crime we hear about every day, and sometimes are victims of, in the wealthiest nation on Earth. It's a bright spot in Cuban society, one I never learned about in my own country, and a factor that the Cubans I met cherish greatly.

2 Comments:

El Manisero said...

I recognize well what you say about being able to walk around safely in Cuba at most any time of day and night. Still, as tourists we tend to stick to certain areas, Habana Vieja, Centro Habana, el Vedado etc which are made safe for tourists by the heavy police presence. My Cuban friends here in Sweden tell me there are certain parts of Habana that even the police don't dare go to. Some barrios near Regla for example.

A teacher I had when studying Spanish spent some time in Argentina in the late 70's, during the Videla era, and he told us that in those days, Argentina too was very safe to visit, but now with our "capitalist" type of democracy, it had become quite violent. I guess it's one of the positive things about a dictatorship. I have heard people in Europe say the same thing about Spain during Franco.

This may in part be due to their slightly different legal system where people can be detained for "peligrosidad", "dangerousness", a term that the police are rather free to interpret. I think it's like arresting somebody because they look like they might commit a crime. Like some countries do with presumed terrorists. Maybe your friends convinced the police of their innocence thru those pesos you gave them?

Then again, it seems the application of the law is quite arbitrary. You may know that the cuban constitution explicitly says that "every cuban has the right to stay in any hotel and to visit any beach". In reality, it's quite the opposite. The best beaches and hotels are reserved for tourists, and any civil rights movement doesn't exist.

Yes, they do take matters seriously. No waiting in line on death row, for instance. A quick trial and by the end of the week, you're already five feet under. Last time was in 2003 when they shot three, imprisoned four for life and one got thirty years, for trying to escape the island by hi-jacking a ferry in the Havana harbour.

If you'd like to see what a trial looks like, here is a documentary. Note especially how, about an hour into the film, the defense lawyers (!) say "We are fully in agreement with the accusations the Prosecutor has made with respect to the crimes that are imputed to our defendant." You can pretty much tell that the final decision is imposed by Fidel Castro himself, but he almost complains that the judges have been too generous by only sentencing four to death, instead of more of them.

It's true what many say in reference to Cuba: "Another world is possible"

/johan

PodPoet said...

Johan:

Thanks for your in-depth comment. I feel compelled to respond to several of your points based on my experience in Cuba, so below is your comment with my responses to several parts of it in all caps:

Original comment and MY RESPONSES:

I recognize well what you say about being able to walk around safely in Cuba at most any time of day and night. Still, as tourists we tend to stick to certain areas, Habana Vieja, Centro Habana, el Vedado etc which are made safe for tourists by the heavy police presence. My Cuban friends here in Sweden tell me there are certain parts of Habana that even the police don't dare go to. Some barrios near Regla for example.

AS I STATED, I VISITED ABOUT A DOZEN CITIES AND 5 OF CUBA'S 14 PROVINCES, OFTEN WALKING OR BEING DRIVEN FAR FROM TOURIST AREAS, AND I DIDN'T SEE CRIME ANYWHERE. ALSO, AS STATED, SEVERAL CUBAN PARENTS IN DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE COUNTRY TOLD ME HOW THEY CHERISH THAT THEIR CHILDREN CAN GO OUT ON THE STREET AND PLAY, EVEN AT NIGHT, AND COME HOME SAFE.

A teacher I had when studying Spanish spent some time in Argentina in the late 70's, during the Videla era, and he told us that in those days, Argentina too was very safe to visit, but now with our "capitalist" type of democracy, it had become quite violent. I guess it's one of the positive things about a dictatorship. I have heard people in Europe say the same thing about Spain during Franco.

This may in part be due to their slightly different legal system where people can be detained for "peligrosidad", "dangerousness", a term that the police are rather free to interpret. I think it's like arresting somebody because they look like they might commit a crime. Like some countries do with presumed terrorists.

AND LIKE THE UNITED STATES HAS DONE ROUTINELY WITH IRAQI, AFGHAN AUSTRAILIAN, BRITISH & EVEN SOME AMERICAN CITIZENS DURING ITS 'WAR ON TERROR.' (See 'Canadian Falsely Acused of Terrorism' - http://www.cbsnews.com/stories/2006/09/19/terror/main2020459.shtml ).

Maybe your friends convinced the police of their innocence thru those pesos you gave them?

Then again, it seems the application of the law is quite arbitrary. You may know that the cuban constitution explicitly says that "every cuban has the right to stay in any hotel and to visit any beach". In reality, it's quite the opposite. The best beaches and hotels are reserved for tourists, and any civil rights movement doesn't exist.

TRUE, AND THIS DISTURBED ME ABOUT CUBAN SOCIETY AND IS A SOURCE OF MUCH DISCONTENT AMONG SEVERAL CUBANS I MET.

Yes, they do take matters seriously. No waiting in line on death row, for instance. A quick trial and by the end of the week, you're already five feet under. Last time was in 2003 when they shot three, imprisoned four for life and one got thirty years, for trying to escape the island by hi-jacking a ferry in the Havana harbour.

If you'd like to see what a trial looks like, here is a documentary. Note especially how, about an hour into the film, the defense lawyers (!) say "We are fully in agreement with the accusations the Prosecutor has made with respect to the crimes that are imputed to our defendant." You can pretty much tell that the final decision is imposed by Fidel Castro himself, but he almost complains that the judges have been too generous by only sentencing four to death, instead of more of them.

HOW MANY AMERICANS ARE SENT TO DEATH ROW EVERY YEAR UNDER FLIMSY OR NO FIRM EVIDENCE OF GUILT? HOW SKEWED ARE DEATH SENTENCES IN OUR OWN COUNTRY TOWARD PEOPLE OF COLOR? HOW MANY PEOPLE HAS THE U.S. 'RENDERED' TO OTHER COUNTRIES TO BE TORTURED AND PLACED OUT OF THE REALM OF CONSTITUTIONAL PROTECTION?

It's true what many say in reference to Cuba: "Another world is possible"

MY MAIN POINT IS, WHILE A BRIGHT LIGHT OUGHT TO BE SHONE ON UNFAIR IMPRISONMENT AND SENTENCING PRACTICES IN CUBA, LET'S NOT HOLD CUBA TO ANY DIFFERENT STANDARD THAN WE HOLD OUR OWN COUNTRY. WE IN THE U.S. HAVE SOME PROBLEMS, AND PERHAPS EQUALLY DREADFUL PRISON CONDITIONS ( See the 'Prison Industrial Complex' - http://core.ecu.edu/soci/juskaa/SOCI2110/Prison_Industrial_Complex.htm ).

FINALLY, LET'S KEEP IN MIND THAT CUBA IS A SOCIETY AND GOVERNMENT AND SYSTEM THAT HAS BEEN 'UNDER SEIGE' AND THREATENED BY THE MOST POWERFUL COUNTRY IN THE WORLD, 90 MILES AWAY, FOR CLOSE TO 50 YEARS. THIS DYNAMIC CREATES EXTREME MEASURES IN A SOCIETY, INCLUDING THE LESSENING OF PERSONAL FREEDOMS. WE HAVE SEEN THE SAME OCCUR IN THE U.S. AFTER 9/11 WITH THE PATRIOT ACT AND EVEN IN A PLACE LIKE HOLLAND AFTER THEO VAN GOGH'S MURDER BY A MUSLIM EXTREMIST. IMAGINE 50 YEARS OF A 9/11-LIKE DREAD HANGING OVER YOUR COUNTRY - WHAT CHANGES DO YOU THINK THAT WOULD BRING TO YOUR SOCIETY?